American Flyer "Performance Improvement Kit" for 4-step reverse unit (E-unit)

Description: 2023Aug11 -- I am TOP RATED on this marketplace with a current 12-month FEEDBACK rating of 100%, and I offer Combined Shipping. See my last 2 pics for my eBay Seller Level and eBay Feedback. For shipping I have specified a handling time of 10 business days. Note -- If you plan on buying several items on different days please do not pay immediately. Instead keep the items in your shopping cart and when done buying request an invoice from me for combined shipping. Presently the ebay shipping algorithm is not properly combining shipping. I have for sale a "Performance Improvement Kit" which consists of 4 small items which can dramatically improve the performance of your balky American Flyer 4-step reverse units. (Also called E-units, which I don't understand 'cause there's nothing "E" about them.) The items simply consist of a piece of sheet lead 1/16" x 11mm x 17mm, a strip of thin sheet steel 7mm x 15mm, a strip of paper 0.004" x 7mm x 80mm, and a #2 SAE washer. The lead has a piece of double-sticky tape on one side. NOTE -- A reverse unit is NOT INCLUDED with this "Performance Improvement Kit". The pics of a reverse unit are for reference only. Here are the 3 common problems I encounter on reverse units, assuming that the solenoid coil is OK and the armature and drum move freely ... 1. The armature won't pull up until the solenoid applied voltage is quite high. Then the engine abruptly jumps into motion. 2. The armature won't drop down when the solenoid applied voltage is cut off. This can be because the basic AF armature really isn't quite heavy enough. 3. The armature won't drop down when the solenoid applied voltage is cut off. This can be because the armature is "sticking" to the solenoid coil. I'm not exactly sure why it's "sticking" (magnetic or adhesive), but it does. To fix problem 1 you apply the thin sheet steel strip to the top of the armature, between the armature and the solenoid coil. In pic #3 you can see the steel strip partially inserted . This works because the steel adds more magnetic mass to the armature and puts that mass closer to the solenoid coil, thus increasing the pull-up force. You have to use some kind of gap-filling glue (I use E6000). Double-sticky tape won't work because there is a rivet slightly sticking up in the middle of the armature. If you didn't have a problem with your armature pulling up then installing this steel strip is not necessary. Also, reverse unit tolerances vary and the gap between armature and coil may vary. Before gluing in the strip make sure your reverse unit can electrically fully cycle with the strip inserted. I've included a longer 7mm steel strip for you to check if the reverse unit can electrically fully cycle with the steel strip inserted. Install the paper strip, per below, before performing this check. If the cycle check fails then the short steel strip cannot be used. Don't manually cycle the reverse unit because it performs somewhat differently in this case. To fix problem 2 you apply the lead weight to the bottom of the armature, as in pic #2. You can use the applied double-sticky tape or you can remove the tape and glue on the lead weight. The double-sticky tape is not a long-term solution and I recommend gluing. For both cases make sure the armature is clean and oil-free. Be sure the armature is in its drop-down position so that the lead weight won't bind against the reverse unit frame. The lead weight can be no wider than 11mm or it will bottom out on the engine or tender frame, preventing full movement of the armature. To fix problem 3 insert the paper strip between the armature and coil (and over the steel strip if you installed it), wrap it around the coil, and fix in place on the top of the coil with tape or glue. See pic #4. For problem 3 my hypothesis is when the armature is electro-magnetically pulled up against the coil and then the coil is de-energized there is some residual magnetism which holds the armature in place. This can be witnessed by a reverse unit which performs OK when cycled manually but not when cycled electrically. Also can be witnessed by some reverse units which drop down after a few seconds and the residual magnetism has decayed. Apparently the 0.004" paper creates enough of a gap between the armature and the coil to negate any residual magnetism. DISCLAIMER -- This "Improvement Kit" has worked fine for me, but I cannot guarantee your results. Too many other variables, such as the state of your reverse unit or how well you install the kit. I recently received a reverse unit in somewhat poor condition. Rehabilitated it, used existing fingers, and installed one of my kits, but without the paper strip. I just made a video of it in operation. Here's the link to the video ... https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mYpUzXp0MKdXg2RX2gwmql2QjUYt_IMe/view?usp=sharing Note the consistent operation, even at 8 volts, about as low as my transformer goes. You really can't get a reverse unit to operate better than this. Here are 3 feedback comments from very recent purchases of this improvement kit ... "nice Item thanks. A+A+A+A+A+A+" "Excellent transaction in every way. Item exactly as described, with good packaging and quick shipment. Highly recommended. Thank you." 'Improved e unit operation greatly very pleased" Also,here are some reverse unit tips ... o The reverse unit drum really should have a shim on the shaft end opposite of the ratchet wheel. The included #2 SAE washer is for that purpose. Without a shim if the drum shifts over to meet the frame sometimes the ratchet pawl will jam between the ratchet wheel and the frame. If you should overhaul your reverse unit install that shim.o Make sure the frame opening in which the ratchet pawl moves doesn't have any sharp or rough edges. I use an X-Acto knife to scrape down the edges smooth.o When installing new finger boards I do not bend those little mounting tabs. They can tolerate just a few bendings before breaking off -- the voice of experience speaking here. Instead I straighten and flatten those tabs and file them down enough so a new finger board easily slips onto them. Then I fix the finger board in place with some CA glue, which is plenty enough 'cause that finger board isn't going anywhere. Note the straight tabs in pic #5. For a future finger board replacement just break off the existing finger board (It's bad anyways, right?) and scrape off any residual CA glue.o Make sure the drum shaft ends are oiled and the ratchet pawl hinge is oiled.o See pic #5, which is not a part of this deal. When I overhaul a reverse unit I install short pigtail superflex wires which I then connect to the power source terminal wires and the motor(s) wires with small wire nuts. AF tried to install too many wires into the holes on a reverse unit which are sized for one wire only, especially so on dual-motor units. Also makes for a very easy reverse unit replacement. Color codes -- Blue for power source #2, Green for power source #1 and motor brush #1, Yellow for motor brush #2, Red for motor field #1, Black (no color band) for motor field #2. (The Black wire is installed in the finger board hole closer to the ratchet wheel.) These color codes are the same you will find on motors wired with AF rainbow wire, and with cloth wires if you can still see the colors. Finally, yeah you could make this yourself instead of buying from me. But, I have a stock of sheet lead and you probably don't. The smallest piece of 1/16" sheet lead, 6" x 6", that you can buy is around $20.

Price: 6.95 USD

Location: Loudon, Tennessee

End Time: 2024-07-22T04:08:19.000Z

Shipping Cost: 5 USD